Oenpelli - Western Arnhem Land
In July this year Lis was rostered on for a 3 month rural remote General Practice training rotation. With only a few communities accommodating families, we ended up going to Oenpelli (or Gunbalanya as the locals call it) in Western Arnhem Land. Oenpelli is a community of around 1000 pop. and is only 4 hrs drive east of Darwin. Road access is only during the dry season as there is a river crossing on the East Alligator River which is impassable during the wet season. This opportunity to live and work in a remote Aboriginal community was something we both wanted to experience while up in the Top End. Craig was able to leave his job in Darwin and take on Daddy Day Care full time which he was looking forward to. Being in Arnhem Land not only gave some interesting insight into remote and Aboriginal living and health care, it also gave us access to some great new camping spots and was closer to Kakadu for weekend trips. We made the most of this as the photos show.
Entering Arnhem Land... let the adventure begin!
The road from Cahill's river crossing to Oenpelli may only be 15 km but the scenery is spectacular.
Hopefully one day Lis will put together her video of the drive...
Hopefully one day Lis will put together her video of the drive...
Our home for 3 months
with a sunrise view over the billabong only 100 m away.
with a sunrise view over the billabong only 100 m away.
Lis off to work at the Health Clinic
While Craig and Maddy hung out at the house and local Creche with the other mums and bubs
With loads of wildlife in and around the billabong we had many a walk checking them out.
Maddy helping Lis with her camp dog stick
One of the many resident crocs in the water.
As many as 30-40 crocs live in the billabong.
As many as 30-40 crocs live in the billabong.
Injalak Hill - home to lots of rock art and interesting burial sites
Plenty of resident Jabirus in the billabong,
and flying Black and Whistling Kites enjoying the burn-off treats
During the months that we were in Oenpelli there were hundreds of Pelicans at the billabong and feeding frenzies like this one were common. Then one day towards the end of the dry all but maybe 20 moved on overnight... impressive to see.
On our first weekend we went for a drive/picnic to check out the "Big Falls", more impressive in the wet maybe. Still it was a nice picinc spot under the paperbark trees.
Burn-off smoke on the horizon - a common sight to see in the dry season
Craig fishing at Cahill's Crossing
Camping at Maguk-Kakadu
After years of anticipation, we finally made it camping to Maguk/Barramundi Gorge (4wd access only). Nice campsite with a great plunge pool, falls and short walk to enjoy.
Plunge pool from the top of the falls.
Mid day siesta....
Plenty of termite mounds... some quite big hey Maddy.
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Back in Oenpelli, lots off water play - lets wet mum :-)
Passionfruit vine growing on our balcony
Maddy and her tomatoes... sadly we only harvested a few before we had to leave.
Checking out the Border Store Thai restaurant with Maddy and Stanley
(our neighbour and Maddy's first boyfriend...)
Camping at Wilgi Outstation
An Aboriginal owned remote outstation at the entrance of the Cobourg Peninsula. Cut off entirely during the wet season, its nearest town is Oenpelli, a 3+ hours unpaved corrugated drive away.
Fantastic spot just off the beach.
Maddy discovering she quite enjoys the beach
Bacon and eggs for brunch... tough life!
Checking out the coastline.
Hungry?? this is a long bum, local bush tucker. Lis did try one when she was over in Gove as a med student.
Magical campsite sunset.
During the night we had a croc come up and camp on the beach. Cool to see but a bit close to our camp. The croc was only about 2m long.
Bush tracker Lis checks out the feet and tail tracks.
Beautiful letting Maddy swim in the lagoon at low tide
Oenpelli "Stone Country Festival"
Each year the community holds a sport and arts festival. There is an Aussie rules footy and basket ball comp between the surrounding communities as well as a display of the local arts and crafts, bushtucker, community education and kids activities.
Bushtucker - barramundi and saratoga
Damper, ducks and yams on the coals.
Pandanus basket weaving... a lot of work in stripping the Pandanus leaf and then dyeing it from local roots and flowers for the different colours. That's all before they actually start weaving the baskets which can take weeks to make.
Local indigenous art is doing well around Australia, as well as overseas
This is artwork by Isiah Nagurrgurrba showing Mother Creation Spirit with her dili bags of dream time stories. This is one of the art centre souvenirs that Craig came home with on a routine basis... http://www.creativecowboyfilms.com/documentaries/rock-art-and-yingana/
Lis helped out at the health clinic cake stand fundraiser
Maddy enjoyed dancing in the sand, and proud of it!
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Hike up Injalak Hill which overlooks Oenpelli. Spectacular views of the escarpment and flood plains as well as some acient rock art.
Mother creation spirit.
Our guide Christine
Looking over the community of Oenpelli and the vast floodplains that surround it.
Camping at Waminari
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One weekend we went up with a group from the Health Clinic to Waminari Bay for some camping. Another great spot, a little fishing was done as well but only a small Creek Snapper was caught.
A quick stop at Coopers Creek on the way up, a good spot to cool off in the shallows, always watching out for those snapping handbags (crocs).
Beach camping
Enjoying a starry campside fire
Craig fishing along the mangroves at the creek entrance. Looks ideal for Mangrove Jacks, Barra and even a Queeny but not this time. Had a good strike from a Queeny the afternoon before but like many fishing stories it's the one that got away.
A spectacular rock formation along the road to Maningrida.
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Blue-winged kookaburra
They were regular visitors to our yard
They were regular visitors to our yard
Checking out some more rock art and scenery just off the road back towards Cahill's Crossing.
The Macassans from Indonesia were regular traders with the Aboriginal population on the coast of Arnhem Land. Their boats feature occasionally in the rock art around the area.
Sunset drinks at Red Lilly Billabong.
Camping at Sandy Creek
Similar to Waminari, Sandy Creek camping area was at the mouth of a bigger creek and camping was up on the sand dunes 100 m or so from the beach.
Morning swim among the rocks at high tide.
Maddy loved her camping bath in the bucket.
Camping under the stars was just magical...
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Fishing Cahill's Crossing was a common pastime over the 3 months, with a mixed bag of success. With the crossing being tidal, on the larger tides the water flows up stream of the crossing bringing both crocs and fish. A great spectacle watching the crocs catching the fish as they come over the crossing.
The crocs didn't get them all - my PB for the trip at 72 cm.
Yeah yeah I know Richard not as big as yours!!!
. . .
Yeah yeah I know Richard not as big as yours!!!
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River cruise up the East Alligator river.
There were over 13 crocs hanging out on the sandbar of this river bend!
The cultural talks and displays from our guide were interesting and well done, it was a good cruise to do.
Permit restricted, 4WD only camping area that was last on our list of places to visit in Kakadu.
...are we there yet Daddy.
From the camp ground it was a 1/2 -1 hour hike up stream to get to the safe swimming holes. It was a nice walk over boulders and ridges with spectacular scenery to go with it.
"Oh! Ants mummy, ants"..... and yes Lis was covered in the biting b@#$s after brushing against a hanging green ant nest on a tree without knowing it. Good job Maddy.
Our swimming hole in the foreground. We spent a good part of the day there.
Nap time in a carved out boulder which would be 3 m or so under water in the wet season.
A view down the gorge towards our campsite (behind the ridge in centre of photo).
Our swimming hole (centre of photo).
Impressive rocky ridge line.
Note the cloud build up... well yes we got our first storms for the season shortly after this photo. Tested out our tent for rain for the first time, worked well.
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One of our last afternoons in Oenpelli, exploring the billabong and floodplain with Paula, Stanley and Michelle
A beautiful sunset not just for the day but the end of 3 months in Oenpelli (Gunbalanya),Western Arnhem Land. We both really enjoyed our time there and met some great people. Both the work and camping experiences will be something we won't forget in a hurry.
One of our last afternoons in Oenpelli, exploring the billabong and floodplain with Paula, Stanley and Michelle
A beautiful sunset not just for the day but the end of 3 months in Oenpelli (Gunbalanya),Western Arnhem Land. We both really enjoyed our time there and met some great people. Both the work and camping experiences will be something we won't forget in a hurry.
